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All these cheeses have one thing in common: They are all Alpine cheeses, and their unique qualities begin with the milk from which they are produced. We’ve all heard the expression “garbage in/garbage out” in reference to modern computers. Cows are no different; they are merely processors for the raw material they consume, and their milk varies greatly with the quality of their feed. If cows are allowed to roam freely, eat the flora they choose in lush mountain pastures (never dried silage!), drink clean water and breathe pure air, they will produce quality milk. Even the cow’s mental state affects the milk quality. And as with winemakers, the final product of the cheese maker’s art is never better than the ingredients. A cheese maker can only make great cheese from finest quality milk.
The Alps, as a region, predates any country names or modern boundaries. Cheeses have been made (and written about) for literally millennia in that area. Hannibal’s generals, on their way to sack Rome hundreds of years before Christ, describe cheeses of the size and dimension of modern 200 pound Swiss wheels and 70 pound parmesan wheels. These cheeses certainly predate Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Austria or France. While Switzerland has benefited most from the Alpine cheese industry, other nations have had some success as well. In addition to the examples above, Italy can thank the Alps for its wonderful asiago, gorgonzola robiola and taleggio cheeses, while France can be grateful for compté, beaufort, vacherin mont d’or and tomme de savoie.
While Switzerland, Italy and France are all known for cheese, most Americans have little reaction when you say “German cheese.” If they are over a certain age, they will think of limburger, and possibly tell you a story that begins “my mother used to make my father keep it on the back porch.” Americans who are more in tune with the modern cheese world may know blue-veined or mushroom brie-style cheeses from Bavaria. While these are great cheeses, they are not traditional German cheeses. Limburger originated in Belgium, and the others are fairly recent inventions. But don’t be fooled—Germany in fact boasts a rich cheese-making heritage dating back to Roman times.
Fearless importer Birgit Bernhard, owner of Fond O’ Foods, has recently brought Germany’s traditional Alpine cheeses into the spotlight. In January 2006, she introduced two new cheeses to the American market; chiantino (KEE-ahn -TEE-noh) and hirtenkäse (HEER-tan-kay-sa). In September, Birgit introduced the first PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) cheese, allgäuer bergkäse (a washed rind Emmental-style cheese in traditional 60 pound wheels).
These delectable newcomers to the American market remind us that the Alps still have a few secrets to share!
Read about Mark Todd.
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