The Wine
Tokay is not technically a grape, but a white wine style, brought to its pinnacle in Hungary’s Tokay Essencia and Tokay Aszú. Essencia is made from free-run (unpressed) juices, primarily from Furmint grapes, which is allowed to ferment by itself. The must is so sweet that special yeasts must be used, and the process literally takes years. The final product may only have 2–3% alcohol, and is often extremely sweet.

Aszú refers to both the specific grape rot (botrytis cinerea) responsible for the tastes of Tokay and Sauterne, and to the type of dessert wine produced. Aszú is made from the pressed juices remaining after Essencia production. The grapes are loaded into baskets called puttonyos, which are then stacked and pressed. The higher the stack of puttonyos, the sweeter the finished wine. Three, four or five baskets are common, six is more unusual.

In contrast to Hungarian methods, the Australians use the more common port wine production method to create their awesome versions of Tokay. This style allows the fermentation to proceed to a certain point, then halts it by adding grain alcohol or brandy. This fortification brings the total alcohol up to about 18%–20%; a level at which the yeasts that cause fermentation can no longer survive.

After fortification, Australian Tokay is oxidized or “browned off,” much like tawny port, Madeira or sherry. Like most oxidized wines, Tokay has aromas of caramel, toffee and vanilla, as well as toasted hazelnuts and coffee. Unlike its counterparts, Tokay has a distinct herbal quality best described as tea-like. It is this quality that sets Tokay apart from the myriad Muscats, Tawnys and Cream sherries on the market. A couple of my favorite brands are Campbell’s and R.L. Buller and Son, although I have yet to encounter a brand I thought was bad.

The Extras
Go for the traditional accompaniments for sweet wines and blues; toasted nuts (hazelnuts or Spanish marcona almonds are my tops here), fresh pears (red bartlet and d’anjou are ideal) and sweetened brown bread such as a nut or raisin loaf.

Why it Works
This is yet another riff on one of the greatest of all culinary combos—sweet dessert wine and salty blue cheese. Every country has their version, from sauterne and roquefort in France to sherry and cabrales in Spain to vin santo and gorgonzola in Italy to port and stilton in England. This particular pairing combines the finest New World wines with one of the greatest Old World cheeses. Classically irresistible!

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