Cheeese (Continued)
Contrary to popularly held American belief, Brie de Meaux is not considered ripe when runny. By that point, the cheese will be overly strong, with a distinct aroma of ammonia. Ideally, when allowed to come to room temperature (68° F), this cheese should bulge slightly, but not run like warm butter. Brie ripens
from the outside in, and there should be a small area in the center that retains some firmness and the flavor of a fresh, unripened cheese.

The rind will always be the fullest-flavored section of the cheese, and except for cooking applications, it should never be trimmed off prior to serving. The vast majority of the calcium in Brie is in the rind, not to mention that wonderful flavor. It is normal for mature Brie to show some various color molds mixed in among the white fluffy candidum rind mold. The pâte should be light ivory to straw colored. Avoid product that shows excessive darkening, which indicates an old cheese. The aroma varies with the aging, but ranges from lightly earthy, like button mushrooms, to pungently earthy, like truffles, damp forest—even barnyard. There is no way to do justice to the flavors or history of this cheese in a column format, but I hope this gets you started down the road to discovery!

The Wine
Sparkling wines can display an astonishing range of stylistic variations. Some are bracingly tart, with brash flavors and aromas of green apple, while others show supple sophistication with yeasty, creamy aromas and flavors—more like apple pie than green apple. I was amazed to find such a wine made in America, and absolutely stunned to find it is made in New Mexico!

The French Champagne family Gruet (Gruet et Fils from Bethon, France) started making sparkling wines near the town of Truth or Consequence, New Mexico in 1987, with their first release in 1989. They now produce more than 80,000 cases per year and sell in 47 states. Their vineyards (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) are at about 4300 feet in elevation; among the highest on the continent. This altitude keeps the vines well-protected from the searing heat common in the valleys of that region. Gruet makes a wide range of products from Demi-Sec and Rosé to Reserves and still wines, but their most widely available products are the NV Brut and the NV Blanc de Noir. If it is available, I prefer the Blanc de Noir (white from black), made exclusively with pinot noir. But both are excellent, particularly for the price (usually under$15). With aromas of fresh bread and pears, these wines are the most French-style sparklers I have found in the new world.      

The Extras
Team this pair with a variety of dried tropical fruits like pineapple and mango, as well as a your choice of fresh berries. If you are lucky enough to be in nectarine season, I highly recommend them!  I also recommend a sweet French bread or ciabatta, as opposed to sourdough, since the latter tends to accentuate the tartness in the wine.
 
Why it Works
This pairing combines the fruity sweet-tartness of the wine with the earthy sweet-tartness of the cheese. The two balance perfectly, as the relatively high acidity of the Brut cuts through the palate-coating unctuousness of the cheese. The pair is traditional in France, and extremely popular around St. Valentine’s Day. This is one of those pairings that will vary tremendously depending upon the ripeness of the cheese. .

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