The Beer
In the southern part of Belgium known as Flanders, the French influence is felt strongly in many ways. The beers in this area are certainly more French than Belgian. The best known are the Saison farmhouse ales. Saison translates to “season,” and the season in question is debated. It refers either to the time of year when the beers were traditionally brewed (spring), or the period when they were consumed (summer)—or both.

These ales have personality; each bottle varies slightly from its neighbor. They are usually a vivid golden ochre, and have a bright acidity and distinctive hop aroma. Usually about 6.5 % abv, these beers are full, but not overly strong. Saisons are among the most wine-like of malted beverages. With aromas of orange peel and anise and flavors both sour-tart and malty, this is one of the serious beer drinker’s favorites. But it can take some time to develop that relationship. This is not a choice most Coors drinkers would embrace as a first step into craft beers. Yet I know one beer maker  who considers this his “desert island beer.”

As with all Belgian bottle-conditioned ales, be careful opening Saisons. They are much like Champagne, and those cages over the cork are there for a reason!

The Extras
This pair can be accompanied by any assortment of pickled vegetables. My first choice is pickled asparagus spears and cornichons. To complete the pairing, I love seeded whole grain bread with sweet-tart tomato relish and Dijon mustard.

Why it Works
Washed rind cheeses and beers are a natural fit. I have espoused the virtues of these farmhouse friends for years, and in previous column have discussed these products’ shared evolution on the farms and in the monasteries of Europe. The tartness of these beers is balanced by the velvety creaminess of most washed rind cheeses, while each product’s unique earthiness mingles on the palate. This pairing is best described as racy—even sexy —and this is the month for it. Enjoy!

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