The Cheese
While there are a fair number of truffle cheeses (and I love them all!), there are not many regular mushroom cheeses. The only two I know come from Germany, and only one is made with real wild mushrooms. The Bergarder family produces a spectacular line of triple-crème cheeses called Bonifaz, which translates to “person of good deeds.” These guys also invented the original blue-veined brie, Bavaria blue, but that is another story (move over cambozola!).

I will refer to the Bonifaz cheeses as “brie” because it is easier than writing out “soft-ripened triple-crème cheese” every time. One of their cheeses is called “Steinpilzen & Pfifferlingen,” more commonly known in this country as “porcini and chanterelle.” This mushroom brie is the real deal. It ripens beautifully, naturally, from its firmer, more elastic youth shot through with small irregular openings, transitioning to an almost molten state, where the body of the cheese bulges and almost runs, and the little holes are completely subsumed. The aromas of traditional brie are earthy and mushroomy to begin with. When you add real wild mushrooms to the mix, the aroma and flavor are off the chart!

Porcini is by far the more obvious flavor, producing the beefy, brothy, moist earth flavors Americans associate with mushrooms. The chanterelles are more subtle and show up predominantly on the finish as a slightly ‘apricot meets artichoke heart’ flavor. The cheese itself shows the best characteristics of a triple-crème; unctuous mouthfeel, buttery flavor and yeasty aroma, all robed in a luxurious white velvety rind. Young or old, this cheese never fails to satisfy my hankering for the unmistakable flavors of wild mushrooms. Since I’m a 10+ year mushroom hunter and past president of the Sonoma County Mycological Association (SOMAMushrooms.org), that craving hits with frequency and ferocity!

The Wine
Viognier, I must admit, has had a hard time breaking through my defenses. I do not typically like wines that can be described as “intensely floral,” and that is usually the kindest term I can find to describe many California Viogniers. In the northern Rhône valley in France, there lives a wine known as Condrieu, highly prized for its crisp acidity and rich, full bodied mouthfeel; its exotic floral aroma and flavors of summer stone fruit balanced against the mildly citrusy finish.

I have never found that style of wine in this country, until now. The 2006 Porter Creek Timbervine Ranch Russian River Valley Viognier is fantastic! It hits on every level; a perfect example of George Davis (and family) sourcing the perfect grapes from the perfect family vineyard and making the perfect expression of the grape in a bottle.  

The Timbervine Ranch is, as its name implies, a vineyard nestled among timberland. The costal redwoods that skirt the vineyards stand as sentinels guarding the precious vines. With enough altitude up on Black Mountain to keep their merry faces above the morning coastal fog, the grapes here receive almost unlimited sunshine, and being in the middle of a redwood forest, their roots can always find water on a hot day. The Dairy Council has made California famous for its “happy cows.” These would be the winemakers’ equivalent, “happy grapes.”

This is the first winery I visited in Sonoma County many years ago, where the winemaker took us out back and we sampled the wines on a barrel head while he worked – he was too busy the waste time in the tasting room. In addition to wonderful Pinot Noirs, he used to make a really small production blush wine from Pinot Noir called “Pink Stuff.” It was great -- my mom’s favorite wine ever.

Today, George Davis’s fantastic tradition continues with the spectacular Viognier. It’s not priced as an everyday wine, more like a splurge ($35 if you can find it), but it is eminently worth the cost and effort if you want to experience the pinnacle of what an American Viognier can achieve.

The Extras
Light crackers (like super-crisp Australian water crackers – not Carr’s), or a classic baguette (not sourdough) and your lips.

Why it Works
It works because these two products are perfect expressions of their respective crafts. The cheese has a complex yet subtle aroma, while the wine is more “in your face.” Together, they blossom into a new array of textures and flavors in your mouth. So many really dry wines just wipe the taste buds clean. But if I wanted that, I would drink water. Here the Viognier’s crisp acidity clears the palate, but does not obliterate the taste memory. It refreshes the palate without removing the lingering flavors of the food with which it is paired. And the cheese is just plain awesome. They need no additional assistance, other than an edible delivery device, like the crackers or bread mentioned above. This is wine and cheese pairing at its most primal. 

Created for Barbara Admas Beyond Wonderful
by Cheese Expert, Mark "The Cheese Dude" Todd.

Barbara Adams Beyond Wonderful features large recipe collections of full-proof quick and easy recipes, classic family favorites, global cuisine, and party ideas. Get illustrated cooking tips and techniques,cooking for beginners, food features, and expert advice on baking, cheese, produce, and wine.

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