French Morbier Cheese with Saison Farmhouse Ale

The Cheese
Morbier originates in the Jura mountains in eastern France, and began as a way to use the leftover curd from the day’s production of Gruyère de Comté. The remaining curds were placed in a small barrel and covered with the soot from the bottom of the copper cheese kettle to retain moisture, prevent rind formation and keep the curd somewhat sterile. After a few intermediate steps, the finished cheese was washed to develop a mild orange rind.

This traditional process is still carried out at two farms in the Jura mountains, but the vast majority of Morbier today is made with vegetable ash to imitate the original methods. Even so, it is still an outstanding cheese, and one of the few I would actually call “sexy.” It has a silky, smooth texture and flavors at once full and rich, and light and delicate. With aromas of French bread, toasted almonds, ripe melon and smoked meats, Morbier is a truly complex cheese. It is available in either pasteurized or raw milk versions. I strongly recommend the raw milk (au lait cru), if available. Also check to make sure the cheese is made in the Jura mountains, not in Auvergne or Poitou. Even the vaunted French are not above making a cheese in one region, shipping it to the traditional region, aging it there and labeling it as the original cheese. The rind should be smooth, reddish-brown and dry, not cracked or slimy. The body of the cheese should be light straw-colored, moist almost to the point of shiny and uniform, with no browning toward the rind.

The Beer
In the southern part of Belgium known as Flanders, the French influence is felt strongly in many ways. The beers in this area are certainly more French than Belgian. The best known are the Saison farmhouse ales. Saison translates to “season,” and the season in question is debated. It refers either to the time of year when the beers were traditionally brewed (spring), or the period when they were consumed (summer)—or both.

These ales have personality; each bottle varies slightly from its neighbor. They are usually a vivid golden ochre, and have a bright acidity and distinctive hop aroma. Usually about 6.5 % abv, these beers are full, but not overly strong. Saisons are among the most wine-like of malted beverages. With aromas of orange peel and anise and flavors both sour-tart and malty, this is one of the serious beer drinker’s favorites. But it can take some time to develop that relationship. This is not a choice most Coors drinkers would embrace as a first step into craft beers. Yet I know one beer maker  who considers this his “desert island beer.”

As with all Belgian bottle-conditioned ales, be careful opening Saisons. They are much like Champagne, and those cages over the cork are there for a reason!

The Extras
This pair can be accompanied by any assortment of pickled vegetables. My first choice is pickled asparagus spears and cornichons. To complete the pairing, I love seeded whole grain bread with sweet-tart tomato relish and Dijon mustard.

Why it Works
Washed rind cheeses and beers are a natural fit. I have espoused the virtues of these farmhouse friends for years, and in previous column have discussed these products’ shared evolution on the farms and in the monasteries of Europe. The tartness of these beers is balanced by the velvety creaminess of most washed rind cheeses, while each product’s unique earthiness mingles on the palate. This pairing is best described as racy—even sexy —and this is the month for it. Enjoy!

Created for Barbara Admas Beyond Wonderful
by Cheese Expert, Mark "The Cheese Dude" Todd.

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