The Cheese
The Blue family is my favorite in all the world of cheese. If you are a regular reader, you’ve probably noticed there’s a blue cheese covered almost every month. Today features a relatively new blue coming out of the Legendairy (love that name!) cheese company in Holland, simply called Blū. This is a blue-veined Roomkaas (Rohm-khass); a Gouda-style cheese with extra cream added.

Most of the Dutch cheese sold in America is basic Gouda and Edam (pronounced KHOW-da and EH-dom), sold young, mild and a little disappointing. This is a shame, as these cheeses are far superior when given the chance to age. The Blū, by contrast, is a relatively young cheese that is full-flavored and rich, with a dense texture for a blue. Because it starts life as Roomkaas, this cheese is pressed – hence the firm body that so distinguishes it from most other blues. The bluing is more subdued, at least visually, than you’d find in a Roquefort or a Cabrales, but it certainly comes through on the palate. I love this cheese for its firm, creamy texture and piquant rush of sharp blue flavor.

The Wine
Until recently, the grape called Valdiguié (VAL du gwee EH) was known in America as Napa Gamay. With the advent of DNA testing, the terrible truth was revealed: Far from the vaunted Gamay Noir a’Jus Blanc, made famous in the fine wines of Beaujolais, these vines are merely a jug wine grape from Southern France’s Languedoc-Roussillon region. So now we call it Valdiguié – a far less illustrious name.

The sad part is that this wine is superb. I have had many top level Cru Beaujolais, and J Lohr 2005 is easily as good. The fruit originates in Monterey County near the Laguna Secca Racetrack, where the cool, windy influence from the Pacific Ocean closely mimics the cool climate of Beaujolais. This wine has undergone about 15% carbonic maceration (a process used in Beaujolais to produce wines with huge fruit flavors, high acidity and really low tannins). It shows just like a fine Beaujolais, with intense flavors of every red or purple fruit you can think of and a bracing acidity, but little or no tannic bite. It is vibrant purple in color, with aromas that are out of this world.

This wine (selling for about $7) would be perfect for an aperitif, with a salad or as a main course wine with roasted fowl or pork loin. In fact, it would be great in a marinade for either of those meats, or as an ingredient in a vinaigrette for the salad! Certainly not a serious steak or roasted beef accompaniment, this wine is great for what it is; a light red wine with enormous fruit flavors that is extremely easy drinking in the summer months. As with Beaujolais, do not age this wine, it will NOT get better! I recommend serving it slightly chilled, about 50-55°F. I also recommend buying at least two bottles, as the first one is likely to be empty long before you are done enjoying this marvelous little wine. 


The Extras
The standards with blue cheeses (apples, pears, nutbreads) are all good here. I also like to include strong charcuterie, like aged salami, hot coppa or dry chorizo (my current fave is Gypsy Salami from the German company Abraham’s). This is a good place to include sweet spreads for your bread as well. I particularly enjoy the Adriatic Fig Spread (that ubiquitous little orange-lidded jar available in every gourmet food shop in the known universe).

Why It Works
This pairing with the blue is more challenging than most, because the wine, while fruity, does not carry any appreciable sugar. For this reason, success depends far more than usual on the accoutrements. If you have just the wine and cheese together without any accompaniments, the impact is thin in the mouth. The overwhelming fruit flavors of the wine are not sufficient to stand up to the intensity of the cheese. The addition of anything else (pear, apple, salami, bread with jam) softens the blue and suddenly the flavors meld beautifully. 

Created for Barbara Admas Beyond Wonderful
by Cheese Expert, Mark "The Cheese Dude" Todd.

Barbara Adams Beyond Wonderful features large recipe collections of full-proof quick and easy recipes, classic family favorites, global cuisine, and party ideas. Get illustrated cooking tips and techniques,cooking for beginners, food features, and expert advice on baking, cheese, produce, and wine.

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